Types of Zippers based on Element Material

There are 3 main categories of zippers which are based on 3 different types of materials as below:

Metallic Zipper

Metal zipper is most basic original zipper first produced. The first zipper was made of metal around 1917 and 1920s. When slider slides up in a zipper the elements get tightly interlocked to keep zipper shut.

Metal zippers are divided into 2 groups, depending on the material used and the process of manufacture:

Teeth formed from a metal wire, either flat or profiled and made from brass, aluminium, nickel or white brass (nickel-free) Teeth die-cast directly onto the tape.

Metal zippers are usually made in a variety of finishes, such as golden brass, antique brass, antique silver, gunmetal, silver etc. These finishes are achieved by chemical treatment of the zipper chain and matching plating of the sliders and end stops.

Generally metal zippers are available in various finishes, but most commonly used zipper finishes are as below:

Aluminum: Elements are constructed using aluminum

Brass: Elements are constructed using brass alloy, typically a combination of copper and zinc

Antique Brass: Elements made from brass that is chemically treated to give worn-out brass appearance

Black Oxidized: Elements are made from brass that is chemically treated to a black matte finish

Moulded Plastic Zipper

These plastic zippers have individually injected molded teeth, fused directly on to the tape of the zipper. The High performance resins used to manufacture molded plastic elements are incredibly strong and make zippers that are durable, strong and flexible. These zippers are ideal for outerwear and heavy weight garments or any outdoor application.

Plastic zippers are divided into 5 groups:

LFC or L-type zippers made with meander/Ruhrmann type coil, stitched around the edge of the carrier tape.

CFC zippers made with spiral coil, stitched on one side of the carrier tape.

Woven-in coil zippers, in which the coil is formed and directly woven into the carrier tape on special looms.

Plastic moulded zippers, in which the teeth/elements made from polyacetal (commonly known as Delrin‚ ) are directly moulded onto the carrier tape.

Plastic extruded zippers, in which a string of teeth/elements is first extruded and then stitched onto the carrier tape.

Two way zippers: These zippers are made usually in #5 or larger sizes in CFC, plastic moulded and metal. The major applications are outerwear and luggage. These are made in X-type or Otype.

Open End zippers: Some zipper applications require a zipper to detached completely e.g. jackets and outerwear. Instead of a fixed bottom stop, box & pin attachment is used.

Invisible Zipper

The main categories of zippers, as described above, also include speciality zippers, which have special types of construction, or parts, or finishes. CFC zippers have a special class known as Invisible zippers due to the special construction and mode of use. These zippers do not require provision of a fly, since they are made and stitched in such a manner that only a hairline seam is visible from outside. These zips are predominantly used in ladies dresses and skirts. These zippers are available in knitted and woven tapes.

Coil zippers

Coil zippers are made from continuous coil of monofilament in place of individual teeth. Coil zippers are often referred to as nylon zippers. The teeth of these zippers are extruded nylon strip sewn onto the zipper tape. These zippers are very flexible and are available in a variety of sizes (gauges). Coil zippers have many applications from fashion-wear to all types of tents and canvas goods and bags.

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Types of Zippers based on Functionality

Heavy duty zippers are always measured from "component to component" (end stops), regardless of  zipper style.

Close-end zippers are non-separating and are normally opened and closed with a slider.  The bottom stop is made up of a single part and doesn't allow complete separation of the  chain. These zippers are used on trousers, jeans, bags, boots, etc.

Open-end (separating) zippers have separated ends. The ending part is joined by a box  and pin mechanism provided on the lower end of the zipper. The zippers are closed using  sliders, and are normally used on jackets and other outerwear.

Two-way separating zippers have separated ends as well. The bottom slider allows  movement from the bottom of the zipper. These zippers are used in rainwear, sportswear and sleeping bag.

Two-Way head to head zippers have two sliders at the center of the chain when the  zippers are closed. Head to head zippers can be open-end by pulling the sliders towards the  stops, but cannot be separated because the ending parts have two stops that cannot be  divided. These zippers are mainly used for bags, backpacks and luggage.

Two-way tail to tail (back to back) zippers have sliders on opposite ends when the gold zipper  is closed. These zippers can be opened by pulling the sliders towards each other, but cannot  be separated. They are used for overalls and anything else.

Length Tolerance in Zippers : Generally zippers can vary when bulk is received due to various factors. Based on JIS-S3015 following tolerance is acceptable in zipper lengths.

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How to Size Zippers

The riri teeth zipper we use in clothing today was invented by Whitcomb L. Judson in 1890. The zipper size is quite different from the zipper length. The length of the shiny silver zipper is measured in inches and centimeters by measuring the area of zipper teeth between the zipper top and zipper stop. Zippers come from the manufacturer in various sizes such from size 1 to 15 and beyond. But these sizes don't reflect the exact zipper dimensions. These numbers reflect industry standards for zipper strengths; the larger the number the stronger the zipper. The method for measuring zipper size is different, but still easy.

Instructions

1 Lay the zipper flat with teeth facing up.

2 Search on the zipper slider for a number or letter, such as 10, for example. The inscription #10 means the zipper is 10 mm, while #5 means the zipper is 5 mm.

3 Measure the length from the metal at the top of the zipper to the metal at the bottom of the zipper. Use this same method for all types of zippers. Don't include any extra zipper tape in your measurement.

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Zipper Manufacture

Forbes reported in 2003 that although the zipper market in the 1960s was dominated by Talon Zipper (USA) and Option (Germany), Japanese manufacturer YKK Group grew to become the industry giant by the 1980s. YKK held 45% of the world market share, followed by Option (8%) and Talon Zipper (7%).

Indian Tex Corp has also emerged as a significant supplier to the apparel industry.

In Europe, Cremalleras Rubi company established in 1926 (Spain), continues to compete with the big multinationals selling over 30 million zippers in 2012.

In 2005, The Guardian reported that China had 80% of the international market. Most metal zipper is made in Xintang town of Guangzhou City.

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Inventions which may instead of zipper

It seems that there is always a need to open and close things repeatedly and quickly. The heavy duty zippers does a very good job of that, but there are other inventions designed to do the same thing.

Have you ever packed a lunch to take on a trip? You may have used a Ziploc bag to keep your sandwich fresh. Ziploc bags are made of plastic and have male and female sides that lock together. Originally, Ziploc bags had only one seal, but now many have two. The seals are very tight and can be waterproof. Try doing that with buttons!

Another invention you are probably familiar with is Velcro. Velcro is usually made from nylon and has two sides. One side is called the hook side (it looks like a forest made up of tiny mushrooms). The other side is called the loop side (it looks like chain stitching made from nylon threads). When you press the two sides together, the hooks and the loops lock together to fasten the material.

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Zipper Engineering

What makes a good Riri teeth zipper? Mostly, it must be strong! There are actually six engineering measurements that are made to determine just how strong a zipper is. Who would have thought that! The actual test descriptions get a little complicated to explain, but see if you can get an idea from the names of the tests as to what they are trying to measure:

•Crosswise Strength

•Vertical Tensile Strength of the Top Stop

•Bottom Stop Tearing Strength

•Tensile Strength of the Box

•Slide Lock Strength

•Overall Strength of the Slider

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zipper parts

If you have ever looked at a heavy duty zipper, you know that they seem to be pretty simple devices. But there is more to them than first meets the eye! In general, a zipper has 12 parts. They are:

     •Top Tape Extension: fabric that extends beyond the top of the zipper

     •Top Stop, or Bridge Stop: used at the top of the zipper to keep it from separating

     •Slider: the device that moves up and down the actual chain

     •Pull Tab: the part of the slider that moves up and down to open and close

     •Tape: the fabric part of the zipper

     •Chain: the piece (often metal) composed of the individual zipper teeth

     •Bottom Stop: a device at the bottom of the zipper to keep it from separating

     •Bottom Tape Extension: fabric that extends below the bottom of the zipper

     •Single Tape Width: the width of one half of the zipper fabric

     •Insertion Pin: a device used on a separating zipper (like the kind on a jacket) that allows a person to join the two sides of the zipper together.

     •Retainer Box: an end stop at the bottom of some zippers

     •Reinforcement Film: additional fabric to add reinforcement strength at the bottom of the zipper

Try taking a magnifying glass sometime and seeing how many of the zipper parts you can identify!

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The Invention of the Zipper

Although buttons were easy to use, there were times when better ways to fasten clothing together were needed. Depending on how the buttons were arranged on one’s clothes, the simple act of sitting down could be cumbersome and could damage the upholstery on furniture. Also, buttons do not provide a very tight seal, which is important in cold climates.

In 1851, inventor Elias Howe (who also invented the sewing machine), received a patent for a device called an “Automatic Continuous Clothing Closure.” This would be the first version of what we commonly refer to as a zipper today. Although Howe invented this device, the popularity of the sewing machine occupied so much of his time and effort that he never pursued the development of a market for his invention.

Over forty years would go by with no zippers until another inventor, Whitcomb Judson, developed a similar device he called the “Clasp Locker.” Unlike Howe, Whitcomb decided to market his invention. He formed the Universal Fastener Company to manufacture clasp lockers. Unfortunately, in spite of his best efforts, his product did not capture the public’s attention and never really took off.

All was not lost, however. One of Judson’s engineers, a Swedish gentleman named Gideon Sundback, began working on different designs for the clasp locker. It was Sundback who would create what we would consider to be the first modern zipper, which Sundlack named the “Separable Fastener.” In addition to the “Separable Fastener,” he also invented a machine that could manufacture the device, making several hundred per day.

One of the first buyers for Sundback’s invention was the B.F. Goodrich Company. They wanted to use the device to act as a fastener for a new design they had for rubber boots. It was the people at Goodrich that coined the name “zipper.”

Now the heavy duty zippers are mostly use for garment and bags.

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The World Before the Zipper

Before the zipper was invented, what kinds of fasteners did people use? In biblical times, men and women wore tunics. Tunics were garments made from two pieces of material that were joined together by a seam at waist level. A tunic was held up against the wearer’s waist by a girdle made from leather or other coarse material. The girdle, which was akin to what we would know as abelt, served as a kind of fastener.

If a man had to work or run, he would pull up his tunic and tuck it into the girdle to give him greater freedom of movement for his legs. This was called girding up one’s loins. If you do a word search in the Bible, you will find the word gird appearing numerous times throughout Scripture. It often means “to fasten” something to a person, whether it be clothes or a weapon.

Another piece of clothing that was often worn, especially during cold weather, was a cloak. A cloak was a piece of cloth that had slits in it for arms. It was worn over the top of a tunic. Because of their designs, neither the tunic nor the cloak required any kind of special fastener to hold things together. Wearing them was simply a matter of sliding the garment on and adjusting the girdle.

About 2800 BC, people began to adorn clothes with ornaments and seals made from seashells that were carved into different shapes. These served no real functional purpose that we know of other than fashion. But that started to change in the 13th century.

The textile industry grew and matured in Europe. Clothing fashions began to change, and garments became increasingly snug. Buttons, and their associated buttonholes, were used to fasten clothes together.

Buttons had some great advantages: They were simple to use and easy to fix or replace. The first European buttons became status symbols. The larger and more intricate a man’s buttons were, the more power and prestige he was given. Gold and silver buttons were proudly displayed by nobility. Specialized button craftsmen were hired to manufacture increasingly ornate buttons that included carvings and paintings on them. Things started to get a bit out of hand, with some men having buttons nearly the size of dinner plates on their jackets!

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